With the multitude of tourists from all over the world visiting the city each year, it's normal for Barcelona to drink and be nourished by diverse cultures, thus earning its reputation as an open and cosmopolitan capital. However, there's something that sets it apart from the rest, and that is the fact that Barcelona's residents like to maintain and cherish their deep-rooted popular traditions. This blend of tradition and modernity is what defines its true character.
Today we have to talk about one of those traditions that are making a comeback to stay. What the whole world calls brunch – a hearty meal halfway between breakfast and lunch – has its own name and specifications in Catalonia for many years now. Everything is invented. It's called "esmorzar de forquilla" and there's no better way to start the day. At least not with so much energy.
The reopening and renovation of the legendary Bar La Esquina, located at Bergara Street nº 2, whose menu and concept pay tribute to Catalan cuisine, is a clear indicator of how this tradition is making a comeback. Here you can start your day sitting at the bars that surround the venue or any of its tables, ordering a Spanish omelette skewer, Calaf sausage with Santa Pau beans and sautéed mushrooms and tender garlic, or a plate of fried eggs with sobrasada and honey or roasted bacon. Check out the full menu here.
What is "esmorzar de forquilla" and where does it come from?
The term "esmorzars de forquilla" literally translates as "fork breakfast," and for many, it was the famous Catalan writer Josep Pla who coined it, despite being a tradition that dates back centuries. He did so because of something that caught his attention and that happened at the two-hundred-year-old Fonda Europa in Granollers: the copious and abundant breakfasts with knife and fork enjoyed by muleteers and vendors before working. They were more than just a meal; they became a social ritual. A moment to relax and have a friendly conversation in good company.
A menu rich in flavor and tradition
The menu of an "esmorzars de forquilla" is an ode to Catalan cuisine. It starts with "pa amb tomàquet," a slice of toasted bread smeared with ripe tomato and olive oil, followed by a variety of cold cuts such as fuet or llonganissa. Eggs are an essential part of the experience, whether in the form of "truita" (omelette) or "botifarra amb ous" (sausages with eggs). And, of course, cheese cannot be overlooked, often served with fresh figs.
Four things to keep in mind about "esmorzar de forquilla"
- It tends to be calorically hearty, so it's most enjoyable in the months of mild or cold temperatures. In summer too, but remember to do it before the sun hits hard.
- It must be eaten sitting down.
- Accompany it with beer or wine served from a "porrón". Tradition is the rule.
- Quality and locally sourced ingredients with traditional recipes. Modest and common products are the key.
The "esmorzars de forquilla" have endured through the ages, resisting modern culinary trends to keep alive a piece of authentic Barcelona. In Barcelona, it's not just about feeding yourself; it's about immersing yourself in the richness of the local culture through its food. So the next time you visit this beautiful city, forget about brunch and join the tradition of "esmorzars de forquilla."